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Paying greater attention to end consumers requires constant innovation and heavy investments in R&D — the top FnF players devote on average around 7% of their revenue on R&D and employ an army of scientists. In Symrise's case, says Yates, the battle for briefs has also driven a wide range of recent initiatives — setting up a perfume academy, making small acquisitions, signing co-operation agreements with biotech companies and investing in new talent, hiring "three of the world's top ten perfumers in fine fragrances."

Kevin Harrington

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Not all players in the fragrance supply chain see that as a problem. With some 30 celebrity perfumes launched in 2007 — five times more than in 2004 — their popularity among consumers shows no sign of waning, says Jeremy Seigal, managing director of The Perfume Shop, a UK retailer that sells some 1,500 products from 600 different brands. "In 2004, celebrity fragrances were about 1% of total sales at The Perfume Shop — today it is around 10%," he notes.