Journal
Tuesday,Sep 15 2009, 08:43:25 AMPhong Nha Cave, Vietnam - A World Heritage site
As we float up the Son river by boat, we wave to the local
girls washing clothes in the clear waters on both sides of the
riverbank.
Phong Nha Cave, Vietnam - A World Heritage site
A World Heritage listed site, Phong Nha
is a place that has become famous worldwide for magnificent caves and
grottos filled with fantastic stalagmites and stalactites.
After the boat trip we start the ascent to enter the caves by hoofing up over 600 stone steps, which seems to be at times verging on the vertical, a real challenge for any visitor.
My girlfriend, though desperate
to see the cave, climbs at a snail’s pace. “How beautiful” she said,
when taking a breather, pointing to the distant landscape. From the
mountain side, in the distance, peaceful villages are nestled in
amongst the green bamboos by the Son river, which is shimmers like a
soft silk strip; from the red roofed houses thin plumes of smoke waft
above, the houses look like wild flowers in the colorful sunlight;
further away the river weaves its dreamy way through the precipitous
mountains. All of which creates a breath-taking view.
Halfway up, we suddenly discover a small mossy roofed temple right by the steps.
“You had best not go in there!” the guide says. “It is very dangerous!”
That
only makes us curious, so we enter, ignoring the creepy feeling. In the
moss-covered yard sit two angry-looking stone lions squatting on the
two sides of the gates ready to devour us. Inside the temple, there is
no one and no incense-smoke but there’s an incense holder positioned
right under a large gilt throne.
“Who is the temple dedicated to?” I ask.
“It is dedicated to Thien son coc tu (Mountain and river genies),” the guide replies.
Legend
has it that on windy days, there appeared strange sounds coming from
the mountain walls. The inhabitants labeled this as a strange but
sacred omen.
In 1824, King Minh Mang ordered the construction of
the temple, dedicated to mountain and river genies, in the hope of
bringing peace and affluence to the locals. It is due the strange
sounds coming from the mountain walls that the King named the temple
Den Nghe (Listening Temple).
It is also reported that when the
temple was initially built it was facing the wrong direction; there
were a number of fatal accidents after landslides and trees collapsing
beside the temple.
So, the locals then re-built the sacred
temple in the position it is in today, and, so it is said, life in the
area resumed natural order.
I keep asking locals why the temple
is now left neglected but no one knows. “Perhaps, it lies in a
dangerous position, where it could be easily buried under rock slides,”
the guide suggests.
Finally we reach the mountain cave, it is
beautiful beyond our imagination. The colourful artificial lights
glowing on the rock walls create a special ambiance. Images of assorted
wild animals dancing on the wall add a pre-historic air. A herd of bats
flap their wings above our heads, while birds’ squawk, which at times
in the darkness of the cave is spine-chilling.
We amble down the
mountain to go down the world’s longest underground river, which runs
right beneath the mountain we have just climbed up.
The mouth of
Phong Nha grotto looks like the mouth of a titanic serpent steeped in
the water. It is some 20 metres wide and 10 metres high and lined with
superb stalactites. The guide tells us that it is due to the sounds of
winds blowing in the grotto that the grotto is named Phong Nha (Wind Teeth).
Our
boat sails in peace besides the sounds of clacking oars and the echoes
of our own voices reverberating around. The cupola of the grotto looks
like a thin gold-inlaid sheet. It reminds us of a love story in times
of old, when the Earth and the Heaven were united.
On the Son
river there lived a young man who was one of the 100 sons of Lac Long
Quan and Au Co. He helped the locals hunt, fish and live peaceful lives.
The
locals cherished him so much that they called him Phong Nha. One day,
many orcas (killer whales) appeared and threatened the area.
An
old man suddenly appeared and told him about a Fairy who had a
wonderful sword. The young man stole the sword and killed the orcas,
bringing happiness to the locals.
He then returned the sword to the Fairy. The Fairy, admiring his exploits, fell in love with him and he, in turn, loved her.
Unfortunately
the Jade Emperor heard the news that his sole daughter had fallen in
love with a mortal man so he whisked her away to Heaven. The Fairy felt
so sad that she said she was determined to return. The Jade Emperor
finally accepted their marriage, giving them the sword to protect the
locale.
The grotto is said to be the sacred place where the
couple met and lived. It is reported that during the American war, the
area was used to hold weapons for the North Vietnamese army. In 1968,
16 Vietnamese soldiers died after two US rockets landed here, which is
why the mouth of the grotto looks as it does today.
Source: Timeout
Related Sites:
Phong Nha - Ke Bang National Park information: http://www.activetravelvietnam.com/nationalparks/north_centre_coast/Phong_Nha_Ke_Bang_National_Park.html
Motorcycling Ho Chi Minh Trail: http://www.ridehochiminhtrail.com/category/ho-chi-minh-trail-tours